A c. 1870-90 Victorian locket, crafted from a 18k yellow gold throughout and bearing an interlaced enameled monogram of the letters ‘CME’ in Gothic script. Weighing a nice 32.7 grams, this is a substantial full locket with a smooth hinged back and a complex interior containing three compartments for photos or keepsakes (glass missing in the lower small oval), with fleur-de-lis ornaments. The gold has developed a warm, buttery tone due to age-related patina.
The Victoria & Albert Museum’s collection of design drawings by John Oxer, dating between 1870-90, depict several lockets similar in style: four feature monogram cyphers in Gothic typography, the letters distinguished by different colors and further accented with enameled dots; rendered shadows show that the monogram element is bas-relief attached rather than champlevé inset; two other drawings depict lockets with a decorative openwork surround like the present example (see E.251:12-2022, E.252:24-2022, E.252:30-2022, E.251:5-2022, E.251:3-2022).
The locket’s period characteristics can also be found in the knobbed openwork lattice surround, which echoes Eastlake movement design from the same period; the same type of knobbed lattice-work can be found on Victorian architecture from c. 1870-80. The flaring triangular bail with its granulation and twisted gold wire accents is influenced by Etruscan revival design, yet another representative element of mid-late Victorian aesthetics.
Note: 18k gold is currently $96.95 per gram, so the melt value alone is around $2900. As in, not antique, not a locket; an unworked lump of 30g 18k gold = $2900.
Price
$3485 USD
MEASURMENTS
Height/length of locket: 60.6 mm (including bail), 48.4 mm (excluding bail)
Width of locket: 36.9 mm
Weight: 32.7 grams